Al Camparino in the Galleria: in the temple of the Italian aperitivo
When writing about Camparino in the Galleria, one always runs the risk of missing too many lines for the history-as intense and fascinating it is-which is basically Milan’s: from the bar founded by Davide Campari in 1915 as the younger brother of the already established “Caffé Campari” the whole world has passed by. “Meneghino” in primis, international as well: intellectuals and actors, politicians and entrepreneurs, nobility and people. And it continues to move on, because its strength is to remain trendy, naturally: an absolute security for the loyal, a pleasant discovery for neophytes (who, by the way, know it by reputation) but above all a monument in a city that never stops, that is constantly changing and precisely for this reason needs a few but essential references. And Camparino in the Galleria – for 362 days a year, from 9:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.: that matters, too – is, in the name of an international club time table.
The renewed Camparino
Campari had the vision to take it over again in 2018, recovering it from the previous management. A careful restyling to best defend the timeless Art Nouveau charm at the Gallery stage, creating new spaces on the second floor (the suggestive Sala Spiritello) and a private room on the lower level. Since its official reopening on Nov. 14, 2019, the “”Camparino”” has re-found its ancient spirit by speaking to a city in the process of evolution, held back by the two-year pandemic. But now it is off to a rocket-like start. “”About 1,300 people a day pass through here, 500 sit down and a hundred eat a few dishes. It makes me happy to see that today 60 percent of the customers are Italian, with an increasing share of young people while previously we were running on 80 percent foreigners: it means that our ‘recharge’ has been a success. We are more than ever the “”Italian bar”” of grand tradition, with staff in white jackets and historic cocktails. But we are not old,”” points out Tommaso Cecca, the veteran head bartender & store manager of Camparino in Galleria.”
The World’s 50 Best Bars
Indeed, it is impressive to see the (right) defense of history and brand (“Everyone who works here is well aware about the values of the place, never had a problem receiving CVs if anything about selection,” Cecca explains) but a contemporary vision that, not surprisingly, has led the Galleria location to enter, from 2021, The World’s 50 Best Bars (it is currently ranked 73rd) along with six others in Italy. But with a deep difference: very few places in the world have this seniority and play strongly on tradition. In the vast majority of cases, the highest-rated bars do pure avant-garde, in hi-tech or spectacular settings. “In fact, for us this recognition that comes along with others has an important meaning: it means being part of the world elite without having betrayed history but with a contemporary approach. Here, Campari Selrz has been prepared with a unique process for more than a century, but we had the courage to perfect the concept of the aperitivo, when it was enough to simply follow the same old rules,” says Cecca.
The World’s 50 Best Bars
Indeed, it is impressive to see the (right) defense of history and brand (“Everyone who works here is well aware about the values of the place, never had a problem receiving CVs if anything about selection,” Cecca explains) but a contemporary vision that, not surprisingly, has led the Galleria location to enter, from 2021, The World’s 50 Best Bars (it is currently ranked 73rd) along with six others in Italy. But with a deep difference: very few places in the world have this seniority and play strongly on tradition. In the vast majority of cases, the highest-rated bars do pure avant-garde, in hi-tech or spectacular settings. “In fact, for us this recognition that comes along with others has an important meaning: it means being part of the world elite without having betrayed history but with a contemporary approach. Here, Campari Selrz has been prepared with a unique process for more than a century, but we had the courage to perfect the concept of the aperitivo, when it was enough to simply follow the same old rules,” says Cecca.
Drink List: from Campari Spritz onward
Three drink lists: the classics indeed, signature cocktails such as the very popular L’Ora del Bitter and Bitter Paloma served only in Sala Spiritello, the essentials such as the refined Wax made with Campari, Sangue morlacco (a liqueur made with maraschino cherries), Del Professore vermouth rosso, Cognac Bisquit VSOP and Peychaud’s bitter. Then it’s obvious that the ratings hit consists of Campari Seltz, Campari Spritz or shaken, Negroni and Americano… “We aspire to export the Camparino culture to other places, and see it as a leading player not only in its original location in Milan,” Cecca concludes. We are aware of this, maybe it will happen. But it thrills us to see, on a Sunday evening in early March, a lot of (young) people drinking outside the Bar di Passo, cheerfully conversing and looking at the Duomo. That’s Milan, that’s Camparino.
Maurizio Bertera, Vanity Fair Italia
